Above-ground and inflatable pools from brands like Intex, Bestway, or Marimex make up the largest share of home pools in Czechia and beyond. They’re cheap and quick to set up — which is exactly why winterizing them so often gets shortchanged. Yet all it takes is one split hose or a liner folded away damp, and by spring you’re looking at an expensive repair, or a brand-new pool altogether. This guide walks you through both approaches: taking the pool down and putting it away, and leaving it standing over winter. For each, you’ll find a concrete procedure, chemistry values, and the typical mistakes to avoid.
Leave it standing, or take it down? Two winterizing strategies
The first decision is crucial and depends on your pool’s construction type. Not every pool can survive a winter outdoors.
| Pool type | Leave it standing | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|
| Inflatable (top ring, Easy Set) | No | Always take down and put away — ice and frost will ruin the ring and the walls. |
| Smaller framed pool (up to approx. 3.66 m, thin tube frame) | Better not to | We recommend taking it down; leaving it up risks deforming the frame. |
| Large / steel framed (Marimex Florida, Intex Prism/Ultra XTR) | Yes, if you follow the rules | Can be left standing with water in it, ice floats, and secure covering. |
General rule: never leave an inflatable pool standing over winter. Expanding ice deforms the walls and the top inflatable ring, and the material turns brittle in the cold. Steel framed pools can survive an outdoor winter if you leave water in them (it holds the structure in shape) and protect it with ice floats. If you’re not sure which category your pool falls into, taking it down and putting it away is always the safer choice.
Winterizing by taking it down and cleaning up — step by step
This is the standard procedure for inflatable pools and smaller framed constructions. Plan it for a dry day with temperatures above 10°C, ideally before the first frosts arrive.
- Clean the pool thoroughly. Vacuum the floor, remove leaves from the surface, and brush the walls. Clean the inlet jets too. The cleaner the liner you pack away, the fewer stains and algae you’ll be dealing with in spring.
- Balance the water chemistry. Bring the pH to 7.0–7.4 and carry out a shock chlorination (typically 3–5× the normal dose). Let the filter run for 12–24 hours so the water clears and organic debris is removed. Clean water means a clean liner.
- Drain the water. Use the drain valve and a hose routed to a drain or an area where the water won’t cause problems. A sump pump helps with larger pools. Only drain onto grass once the chlorine has broken down (after a few days without dosing) — otherwise you’ll scorch the lawn.
- Protect the filter and hoses from frost. Disconnect the hoses and the cartridge or sand filter and let every last drop of water run out. Residual water left in the hoses and the pump head will crack them once it freezes. Wash and dry the cartridge, and for sand filters, backwash and drain the filter.
- Dry and fold the liner. Spread the liner out in the sun, or wipe it down, and let it dry completely on both sides. Only once it’s fully dry should you fold it loosely (not too tightly) and store it in a pressure-free crate or bag.
Don’t rush the last step. A damp, folded liner will grow mold within a few weeks, and mold can’t be reliably removed from PVC once it takes hold. Drying is the single most important part of the whole clean-up.
The “leave it standing over winter” option (steel framed pools)
A large framed or steel pool doesn’t have to be taken apart every year. The water inside holds the structure in shape and protects it from deforming. The procedure differs from the take-down approach:
- Clean the pool and balance the chemistry just as in the previous approach: pH 7.0–7.4, shock disinfection, and optionally a winterizing agent against algae and scale. This keeps the water in better condition over winter and simplifies the spring start-up.
- Lower the water level. Drain the water to roughly 10–15 cm below the level of the inlet jets and skimmer. Then plug the jets with winterizing plugs so no water is left in them.
- Add ice floats. Place winterizing floats (polystyrene “noodles”) or filled PET bottles tied together in a chain across the surface. Ice expands as it forms, and the floats absorb that pressure — without them, you risk a torn liner or a deformed frame.
- Disconnect and store the filter system. Never leave the filter unit, hoses, or pump outside under water over winter. Drain them completely and store them in a heated space. Running the filter over winter serves no purpose and it will simply freeze.
- Cover the surface. Fit a winterizing cover or tarp so leaves and debris can’t fall in. Tension it well so water and snow don’t pool on top — their weight would otherwise pull it down into the pool.
Inflatable vs. framed pool — how they differ
Both types call for a different approach, even though the chemistry and cleaning steps are the same:
- Inflatable (Easy Set): always take it down. Before folding, let the air out of the top ring and let the whole wall dry fully. The material is thinner and cracks in the cold, so never store it outdoors or in an unheated shed where the temperature drops below freezing.
- Framed: large steel models can be left standing with water and floats in place. If you do take it apart, disassemble the tube frame, clean the joints of debris, and store them separately from the liner. Let the steel tubes dry fully so they don’t corrode.
Smaller framed pools are a borderline case. The structure may not withstand the pressure of ice and snow, so we generally recommend taking these down and storing them dry as well.
Storing the liner and accessories
Correct storage determines whether your liner lasts five years or just two seasons. Stick to three conditions: warmth, dryness, and no pressure.
- Temperature above freezing, ideally 5–15°C. PVC stiffens in frost and cracks when unfolded in spring. A heated garage, utility room, or warmed shed works well — not an attic, where summer temperatures climb far too high.
- Completely dry. Only store the liner and cartridge filters once they’re fully dried out. Moisture means mold.
- No pressure or sharp edges. Fold the liner loosely, don’t cram it into a tight bag, and don’t stack heavy items on top of it. Sharp objects stored in the same space can puncture it.
Store hoses, jets, the ladder, and cleaning accessories dry in a single box, so everything’s together come spring. Cartridge filters you want to reuse next year need to dry out too — left damp over winter, they’ll grow mold and have to be thrown away.
Common mistakes when winterizing an above-ground pool
- Water left in the hoses and filter. The most common and most expensive mistake. Residual water freezes, expands, and cracks both the hose and the pump head. Always drain everything completely.
- Liner folded away damp. It will grow mold within a month, and the mold won’t go away. Dry it thoroughly on both sides.
- Storing in freezing conditions. Neither the liner nor the filter belongs in an unheated shed or outside under a lean-to. Frost destroys the material.
- Leaving an inflatable pool standing. Ice deforms the ring and the walls. Always take inflatable models down.
- Missing floats on a pool left standing. Without them, ice pressure will tear the liner or deform the frame.
- Draining chlorinated water onto the lawn. Heavily chlorinated water will scorch the grass. Only drain it once the chlorine has broken down, or route it to a drain.
Frequently asked questions (FAQ)
Can I leave an Intex inflatable pool standing over winter?
No. Always take down inflatable pools with a top ring, dry them, and store them somewhere warm. Frost and ice deform the walls and ring, and the thin material cracks in the cold.
How much should I lower the water level on a framed pool I’m leaving standing?
Drain the water to roughly 10–15 cm below the level of the inlet jets and skimmer. Then plug the jets with winterizing plugs so no water is left in them that could freeze.
What are winterizing floats for?
Ice expands as it forms and pushes against the pool walls. Floats (polystyrene noodles or tied-together PET bottles) absorb that pressure and protect the liner and frame from tearing and deforming.
At what temperature should I store a pool liner?
Ideally between 5 and 15°C, always above freezing. In frost, PVC stiffens and cracks when unfolded in spring. A hot attic is unsuitable too, since summer temperatures there climb far too high.
Do I need to drain the water from the filter and hoses?
Yes, without exception. Residual water in the hoses, cartridge housing, or pump head will crack them once it freezes. Disconnect the filter, let it drain fully, and store it somewhere dry and above freezing.
When is the best time to winterize?
Before the first overnight frosts, usually in October or early November depending on the weather. Pick a dry day with temperatures above 10°C so the liner dries properly.
Don’t want to winterize it yourself?
If you’re not confident about taking it down, handling the chemistry, or protecting the filter, leave it to the professionals. Submit a no-obligation request and compare quotes from vetted service companies in your area. You’ll save time and avoid a potentially expensive spring repair.
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